Visiting the Montserrat Monastery in Spain

Montserrat Mountain lies at the heart of Catalan identity.

Sculpted over millennia by wind and frost, the mountain is instantly recognizable. Its knobs and rock formations protrude skyward, like gnarled fingers that extend from weathered hands.

Amidst its jumble of rocky turrets and spires, Montserrat conceals some of Spain’s most revered icons, paintings, and scenic vistas.

 

MONTSERRAT IN SPAIN: AN OVERVIEW

Montserrat lies 50km northeast of Barcelona and 150km south of Andorra, in the Spanish breakaway region of Catalonia.

Its name, ‘serrated mountain’ in Catalan, describes the rock spires and jagged conglomerate formations that have made it a centerpiece of the region’s folklore and identity.

The Montserrat Monastery—nestled amongst the rocky spires of its namesake mountain—is a popular day trip from Barcelona. I spent half a day in Montserrat during my trip to Barcelona, and immediately wished I could have stayed longer.

There are a number of things to do in Montserrat Spain. Top places of interest include visiting the Benedictine monastery, touring the Montserrat Art Museum, and hiking the area’s network of trails.

 

THE ABBEY OF MONTSERRAT

The Benedictine Monastery of Montserrat lies halfway up the rocky mountain. Adjacent to its courtyard, sits a small cathedral that houses the area’s revered Madonna.

The statue, often referred to as the Virgin of Montserrat or ‘La Moreneta‘, represents one of the world’s most famous depictions of the Black Madonna. Contrary to popular belief, this particular statue does not portray a Black African Madonna. Historical records indicate that the statue likely darkened over time due to prolonged exposure to candle smoke.

The 12th century statue stands above the cathedral’s high altar, overlooking the interior of the Montserrat Basilica. The Madonna is said to bestow fertility on those who kiss her hands.

 

MONTSERRAT MUSEUM

The Montserrat Museum lies adjacent to the monastic complex and cathedral. It is one of the finest museums in Catalonia. Inside, you’ll find a range of valuable artifacts—from Egyptian mummies, to Orthodox icons, to fine canvases painted by Caravaggio, El Greco and Picasso.

The museum does not contain artifacts from the mountain or Abbey, but it nonetheless boasts an impressive collection of art from some of the world’s most famous painters.

Entrance to the Montserrat Museum costs €8.

 

THE BOYS CHOIR OF MONTSERRAT

The Montserrat Boys Choir (Escolania de Montserrat), is world-renowned. It is one of the oldest choirs in Europe, with performances dating back to 1223. There are now 50 boys in the choir.

The choir holds two daily performances in the Basilica of Montserrat. You can purchase tickets online in advance to reserve a spot for the performance.

 

SANTA COVA DE MONTSERRAT

Santa Cova is a hillside cave on Montserrat that is accessible on foot or by funicular.

The cave was home to the Virgin of Montserrat during the Moorish conquest of Spain. In 880, the rediscovery of ‘La Moreneta‘ turned the entire mountain into a pilgrimage destination. The Santa Cova Chapel, erected in the 17th century, was built around the cave in order to protect the statue.

A funicular connects the monastery with the Santa Cova Chapel.

Though we could see Santa Cova from a distance during our trip to Montserrat, we chose not to visit due to lack of time.

 

SAN JUAN FUNICULAR

The Sant Joan Funicular connects the Montserrat Monastery with some of the mountain’s best hiking trails. .

There are two reasons why you might decide to take a journey on the Sant Joan funicular: either for the views of Montserrat, or as a starting point for some of the walks around the natural park.

Even if you don’t plan on doing any hiking at Montserrat, the views from the top of the funicular are absolutely worthwhile.

 

HIKING IN MONTSERRAT

Numerous manicured paths—many of them leading to small churches and sanctuaries—criss-cross Montserrat’s Joshua-Tree-like jumble of boulders and rock spires.

The area is truly spectacular. Even for travelers with a mere three days in Barcelona, the mountain and its surroundings merit a visit.

You can take the Sant Joan funicular to the top of Montserrat Mountain. From there, trails afford birds-eye views of the area from above.

I regret not doing much hiking in Montserrat. I completely underestimated the beauty of the area and did not budget the extra time into our day trip.

Popular hikes in Montserrat include the Sant Jeroni loop trail (9km) and Hermites Way path (6.7km).

 

• SANT JERONI LOOP TRAIL

At 1236 meters above sea level, Sant Jeroni is the highest point on the Montserrat massif.

You can reach the viewpoint via a trail that begins at the San Juan funicular drop off. The path is partially paved and not particularly steep, with epic views of Catalonia below.

Along the way, the Sant Jeroni Loop passes by several abandoned hermitages and caves, some of which are over a thousand years old.

• ST MICHAEL’S CROSS

St Michael’s Cross (la Cruz de San Miquel) is another of Montserrat’s iconic viewpoints. The walk begins behind the Santa Cova funicular and takes about 20 minutes each way.

• STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN

The Stairway to Heaven sculpture has become a Montserrat bucket list attraction thanks, in large part, to Instagram. The statue consists of nine large concrete blocks that ascend toward the sky in a helical pattern.

At one time, tourists would climb to the top of the statue for photos.

Today, a safety fence surrounds the art installation for both preservation and safety purposes.

 

WHERE TO STAY NEAR MONTSERRAT

While most people choose to visit Montserrat Monastery as a day trip from Barcelona, there are places to stay within the park as well. Overnighting at the mountain allows you to enjoy the monastery in the mornings and evenings, when the area is quieter.

The Hotel Abat Cisneros Montserrat lies within the park. Guests can enjoy beautiful views over the mountains and the Llobregat Valley from its property.

Outside the boundaries of the park, you’ll find the small municipality of Monistrol de Montserrat. The town contains a few accommodation options including the Guilleumes Montserrat and Casa Iaia.

Otherwise, you’ll find a wide range of hostels, hotels, and guesthouses in Barcelona.

 

MONTSERRAT TOURS

While visiting the Montserrat Monastery independently is relatively straightforward, you can also visit the area as part of an organized tour.

Some tours of Montserrat focus solely on the mountain and its monastery, while others include lunch and wine tasting.

If you want to make the most of your limited time in Catalonia, you can join a basic half-day morning or afternoon tour of the monastery.

For ambitious travelers, there are also tours that encompass Girona and Costa Brava in addition to Montserrat.

 

GETTING TO MONTSERRAT FROM BARCELONA

There are multiple ways to travel to Montserrat from Barcelona—both independently and as part of a tour. My mother-in-law and I opted to travel on our own in order explore the area at our leisure. Travelers with limited time, however, may want to check out guided day tours of Montserrat instead.

The main way to travel independently between Barcelona and Montserrat involves taking a train from Plaça España to Monistrol, followed by either a cable car or rack railway to the monastery.

Combination tickets to Montserrat cost roughly  €30, regardless of whether you choose to take the rack railway or the cable car. We chose the rack railway due to time constraints and are glad we did. While I’m sure aerial views of Montserrat from the cable car are spectacular, we could see long lines of people waiting for their ride to the top.

In contrast, our journey to the monastery using the rack railway was both seamless and scenic.

 

WHEN TO VISIT MONTSERRAT

Montserrat is a year-round destination for hikers, pilgrims, and sightseers.

As with most of Europe, summer is the busiest time to visit Montserrat. High season falls between May and September.

If you’re traveling during peak season, expect long lines and crowds.

Winter is low season at the Montserrat Monastery. And, while visiting during the slower months can be rewarding, you should note that the mountain is also significantly cooler and windier than the lowlands. Be sure to bring extra layers.

 

*****

The gnarled hulk of Montserrat Mountain lies a stone’s throw from Barcelona’s world-renowned tourist attractions. A popular day trip destination, it teems with natural beauty and cultural significance.

Tourism in Catalonia revolves around the pulsing metropolis of Barcelona. And rightly so. The bustling city is absolutely teeming with architectural marvels.

But if you want to dig deeper into Catalan heritage, then traveling to the iconic mountain and its monastery is absolutely worthwhile.