Ella: The Heart of Sri Lanka’s Hill Country
Sri Lanka is known for many things: beautiful scenery, hospitable people, diverse wildlife, ancient civilizations, and a brutal civil war that ravaged the country until 2009.
But most of all, the small island nation is known for its production of high-quality tea.
In the lush Hill Country near Ella, tea plantations carpet mist-wrapped hillsides, while waterfalls tumble through thickets of dense vegetation. It is a stunning region, where hiking trails abound and neatly-pruned tea plants drape over the area’s peaks and valleys like a patchwork quilt.
THINGS TO DO IN ELLA, SRI LANKA
The small town of Ella lies nestled in the idyllic rolling highlands of Sri Lanka’s Hill Country. It is a laidback hangout spot for backpackers, hikers, and lovers of nature.
Ella is bustling with guesthouses, hotels and seemingly more restaurants than the rest of Sri Lanka combined. The town is one of the most popular travel destinations in Sri Lanka.
And for good reason.
Ella’s surroundings are ripe with incredible scenery and a plethora of things to see and do.
THE KANDY-ELLA TRAIN
The train ride from Kandy to Ella is one of the top things to do in Sri Lanka. The rickety blue passenger train connects Ella with the historic city of Kandy and showcases spectacular scenery en-route.
With its postcard-perfect views at every bend, the Kandy-Ella route is often regarded as one of the most beautiful train rides in the world.
The train travels at such a slow pace that it took us nine hours to travel the 140 kilometers between Kandy and Ella.
But still, it was one of the most memorable days of our trip to Sri Lanka.
The train from Kandy to Ella tends to fill up with tourists and locals alike. To secure a spot, you can reserve tickets online in advance.
While first class tickets often sell out quickly, I don’t necessarily recommend traveling in style. In first class, the windows and doors don’t open—so you won’t be able to hang out of the train car.
We bought second class tickets and switched back and forth between the second and third class compartments. When a spot opened up near third class doorway, we sat down on the floor and watched the world go by, with our feet hanging out of the carriage.
From the doorway of our third class compartment, we were practically able to reach out and touch the area’s dense foliage and emerald grasses.
HIKE TO THE NINE ARCH BRIDGE NEAR ELLA
The Nine Arch Bridge is a relic of former Ceylon. It is a beautiful attraction, as well as an impressive feat of engineering.
Hiking to the Nine Arch Bridge is one of the top things to do in Ella.
The hiking path follows the main road in town, before veering to the left past private homes and tea plantations. The return journey follows the train tracks back into town. The leisurely walk affords a birds-eye view of one of Sri Lanka’s most picturesque bridges.
A small family-owned cafe sits along the hiking trail, overlooking the Nine Arch Bridge.
Since we were in no particular hurry, Emma and I bought smoothies from a small cafe, found a shady place to sit, and waited for the train to make its way across the tracks.
HIKE UP LITTLE ADAM’S PEAK
Little Adam’s Peak is fairly easy to climb, with a well-marked, well-maintained path leading all the way to the top.
The popular mountain gets its name from Adam’s Peak due to its similar (albeit smaller) form.
The trail passes by verdant plantations that are dotted with tea-pickers and Hindu shrines.
From its summit, Little Adam’s Peak affords breathtaking 360 degree panoramas of the Hill Country’s forested terrain.
From Little Adam’s Peak there is a direct trail to Nine Arch Bridge, which will save you time if you choose to undertake both popular hikes in one day.
VISIT A TEA FACTORY
Sri Lanka’s Hill Country is noticeably higher and cooler than elsewhere on the island. Its combination of temperature, rainfall and fertile soil has created ideal conditions for growing and harvesting high-quality tea.
Tea cultivation in Sri Lanka dates back to the 1880s, when James Taylor introduced the first tea plantation to British Ceylon.
Today, independent Sri Lanka is the world’s fourth-largest producer of tea. The tea industry generates billions of dollars annually for the Sri Lankan economy and employs over one million people.
The Uva Halpewatte Tea factory outside of Ella is the perfect place to learn more about the production and distribution of tea in Sri Lanka.
You can visit the factory’s production rooms as part of an hourlong tour.
Tours of the Uva Halpewatte Factory allow you to see the process by which tea is plucked, sorted, dried and packaged.
CHASE WATERFALLS IN ELLA
Ella’s lush verdant hillsides conceal tumbling waterfalls and gushing streams. Ravana Falls and Diyalama Falls are probably the most famous cascades in the area, though some hidden gems lie off the trodden tourist trail.
Regrettably, I didn’t get the opportunity to visit any of the Hill Country’s waterfalls during my trip to Sri Lanka.
ENJOY SRI LANKA’S FOOD SCENE
During our time in Ella, we took advantage of the little city’s culinary delights. We started each day with a pot of tea, filled our stomachs with curries and papadams and stopped by the Down Town Roti Hut after every meal for a scrumptious banana-and-chocolate-filled dessert.
I learned, During our trip, we learned that most Sri Lankans eat at home and restaurant culture hasn’t really taken hold outside of tourist areas. As a result, we found a surprising dearth of eateries throughout the country.
You won’t have a hard time finding places to eat in Ella, though.
With all the tourists, delicious places to eat abound.
WHERE TO STAY IN ELLA SRI LANKA
During our three days in Ella, my friend and I stayed at Nest of Peak— a budget guesthouse perched atop a hill outside of town. Our inexpensive room came with a private bath and a balcony affording unbeatable views of the Ella Gap.
Our budget guesthouse accommodation provided everything we needed and we immediately felt as though we had found paradise amongst the Hill Country’s misty emerald peaks,
Other highly-rated budget options around Ella include the Astral Zone Cottage and Lavendra Paradise.
The Namara Green Ella is a midrange option that remains largely affordable by international standards.
For a step up in luxury, you may want to consider the 98 Acres Resort and Spa or the HIDE ELLA Hotel and Resort.
BEST TIME TO VISIT ELLA SRI LANKA
Ella boasts cooler temperatures than many other places in Sri Lanka, thanks to its higher elevation and mountainous setting.
The best time to visit Ella is between January and March. Monsoons often strike the central highlands between July and November, though the months of June and July also tend to be pleasant. Temperatures peak in June-August.
If you want to minimize your chances of encountering rain, you should avoid April, May, October, and November.
My friend and I visited in July. The weather was generally quite favorable, albeit hot and humid.
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I spent three days in Ella during a trip to Sri Lanka that included the Cultural Triangle, Udawalawe National Park, and the coastal town of Galle.
Though we only stayed in the Hill Country for a limited time, I could have easily spent my entire vacation exploring the tea plantations and mountainsides of Sri Lanka’s central highlands. With its emerald terraces, its mist-wrapped mountains and its carpet of neatly-manicured plantations, the Hill Country is a jewel on Sri Lanka’s scenic crown.
And if you’re coming from the hot and sticky scrublands of the Cultural Triangle, the cool mountain climate is a literal breath of fresh air.
