Things to See near Kyrgyzstan’s Lake Issyk Kul
Boasting turquoise alpine lakes, cow-studded pastures, craggy mountain ridges and dramatic windswept rock formations, Kyrgyzstan is a country defined by its beauty. Kyrgyzstan’s wild and unspoiled scenery remains raw and relatively untouched by mass tourism. Mountains cover eighty percent of the country’s surface area and beckon hikers with dramatic vistas and abundant photo opportunities. Nestled at the heart of this dramatic wonderland, lies crystal-clear Lake Issyk Kul–the world’s second-largest high-altitude lake and the center of Kyrgyzstan’s burgeoning tourism industry.
There are endless things to do around Lake Issyk Kul. In summer months, beaches along the lakeshore attract sunbathers and swimmers. Beyond the shores of the lake, activities include horseback riding and some of the best trekking in Central Asia.
After four incredible days in southern Kazakhstan, Dan, Courtney and I traveled to Kyrgyzstan for the third biennial World Nomad Games. Since the nomadic games took place in Cholpon Ata at the north end of Lake Issyk Kul, we decided to focus our Kyrgyzstan itinerary on the plentiful things to see and do nearby.
With nearly a week in this stunning area of Kyrgyzstan, we soaked in hot springs, strolled through jailoos, relaxed by the water’s edge and trekked among Kyrgyzstan’s snowcapped peaks.
Karakol: Gateway to the Kyrgyz Mountains
When we arrived in Kyrgyzstan, we had a full day to spare before the start of the World Nomad Games. Hoping to make the most of our time near Lake Issyk Kul, we headed to Karakol. The sprawling city of Karakol is Kyrgyzstan’s primary mountain gateway. Karakol sits on the eastern edge of the lake and is a launching pad for excursions to Altyn Arashan and Jyrgalan.
While in Karakol, we spent two nights at the Evergreen Guesthouse–a lovely family-run establishment with impeccable rooms, a hearty free breakfast and a friendly host that offered up information on things to see and do around Lake Issyk Kul. It was, by far, the best place we stayed during our three weeks in Central Asia.
Karakol is a pleasant city with shaded streets, low-rise houses, plenty of green spaces and some excellent eateries. It is a town with limited sights, but lots of nearby activities. The city’s most famous attraction is the Holy Trinity Orthodox Church–a 19th century structure that is said to have been built without the use of a single nail.
Fires and earthquakes destroyed the church mere decades after it was built. What stands today, is a largely rebuilt replica of the original masterpiece.
Still, the church’s exquisite exterior is a must-see when in Karakol.
From the cathedral, my travel companions and I took a taxi to the Karakol Livestock Market. As we milled about the market, we watched men and women haggle over cows, goats, sheep and horses.
Karakol’s renowned market takes place every Sunday. It attracts vendors and buyers from surrounding communities, as well as a few odd tourists.
The Karakol Livestock Market–one of the largest in Central Asia–is reminiscent of the Friday Cattle Market in Nizwa, Oman. The sprawling market offers a fascinating glimpse into Kyrgyz society.
Day Trip to the Altyn Arashan Hot Springs
After visiting the livestock market and the Holy Trinity Cathedral, we hired a driver to take us to the Altyn Arashan Hot Springs. Altyn Arashan is the most popular trekking destination within easy reach of Karakol. Set in a postcard-perfect alpine valley, the yurt-studded jailoo is breathtaking.
Many travelers to Altyn Arashan visit the area as part of a three day hike to Ala Kol Lake. Since we only had a day in Karakol before the start of the games, however, we settled on an afternoon trip to the hot springs instead.
The road to Altyn Arashan is among the worst I’ve ever seen. Resembling nothing more than an uneven hiking trail, the drive up the root-covered, rocky path is a hair-raising, body-beating adventure.
As we climbed the mountainside in our seatbelt-less UAZ-452, we bounced up and down, side to side. Along the way we passed hikers, sheepherders and jaw-dropping vistas of the surrounding mountains.
Two bruising hours later, our driver dropped us off at an Eco Yurt Camp near the hot springs. As soon as we reached Altyn Arashan, we fell in love with the idyllic valley. Sitting in the shadow of Palatka Peak and flanked by forested mountains on either side, the grassy jailoo is home to a series of thermal springs that lie along the river.
Altyn Arashan contains both indoor bath houses and outdoor hot springs. We initially soaked in a frog-shaped outdoor pool by the river. But the water in the frog’s mouth was lukewarm at best.
After half an hour of bathing in the open-air spring, we paid a small fee to access a steamy indoor pool attached to the yurt camp.
We may not have done much hiking in Altyn Arashan, but our banged-up bodies sure enjoyed the therapeutic water.
Jyrgalan: Kyrgyzstan’s Trekking Paradise
Following our day trip to Altyn Arashan and three days cheering on the athletes at the World Nomad Games in Cholpon Ata, Dan, Courtney and I returned to eastern Issyk Kul for a few days of trekking in Jyrgalan. Natural beauty fills the Jyrgalan Valley. Emerald hills and pastures roll outward, ringed by craggy snowcapped peaks. Lakes, rivers and waterfalls bisect this lush landscape and sparkle in warm summer sunshine.
We spent two days in Jyrgalan–soaking in the mountain scenery and basking in the solitude of this sleepy mountain community.
While many travelers to Jyrgalan opt to set off on multi-day treks in the area, we chose to stay at the Jyrgalan Yurt Lodge and take day hikes into the surrounding pastures and mountains.
On our first day in Jyrgylan, we meandered past village streams and cow-studded pastures to the Kok Bel Waterfall.
On our second day in Jyrgalan, we heeded the advice of the local Community Based Tourism (CBT) office and set out to visit Turnaluu Kol Lake–a shimmering body of water that lies 2,700 meters above sea-level.
Though we were equipped with step-by-step directions, we didn’t quite make it to the lake. The path–well marked with arrows for the first mile or so–simply disintegrates into the lush farmlands outside of town.
With no clear path to the lake, we spent the rest of the afternoon walking through pastures, fording mountain streams, and enjoying the surrounding scenery.
The Southern Shores of Lake Issyk Kul
From Jyrgalan, Dan made the long journey back to the United States for work. Courtney and I still had a few days to spare before our return flights, so we ventured to the southern end of Lake Issyk Kul.
While we explored southern Issyk Kul, we stayed at the Bel Tam Yurt Camp near Tong. The yurt camp sits on the shores of the crystal-clear lake and boasts a mountainous backdrop, a laidback communal area and delicious nightly dinners.
A trip around the entirety of Lake Issyk Kul reveals the diversity of things to do in this area of Kyrgyzstan. On the southern shores of the lake, we swapped lush green mountains for cracked red desert.
As a day trip from the Bel Tam Yurt Camp, we spent an afternoon at the colorful Skazka Canyon. Also known as the Fairy Tale Canyon, this geologic wonder is a place where iron-rich rocks have eroded into photogenic corridors and spires. It is one of the most impressive attractions near Lake Issyk Kul.
Part Valley of Fire in Nevada, part Painted Hills in Oregon, this colorful landscape is a swirling melange of reds, pinks, yellows and oranges –a striking contrast to the cobalt lake waters that lie beyond.
Courtney and I spent two blissful days at the Bel Tam Yurt Camp. After a week of being constantly on the move, we reveled in the serenity of the camp’s lakeside location.
Aside from our day trip to the Skazka Canyon, we did very little sightseeing during our final days in northeastern Kyrgyzstan.
Instead, we simply enjoyed reading at the beach, chatting with fellow travelers and falling asleep to the sound of lapping waves.
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The area around Lake Issyk Kul is a wonderland for hikers, sunbathers and nature-lovers. Our week around Kyrgyzstan’s largest lake showcased some of the most extraordinary scenery that this landlocked Central Asian country has to offer.
Based on travelogues and google photos, I had high expectations before visiting Kyrgyzstan. I knew the country would be visually stunning and culturally vibrant.
What I didn’t realize, is that the ease of traveling in Kyrgyzstan would be facilitated by a comprehensive public transportation system, easy visa-free travel, plentiful things to see and do and some of the friendliest people I’ve ever met.
