Perito Moreno Glacier Big Ice Trek
The Perito Moreno Glacier is a dazzling blue and white expanse of pure awesomeness. It is one of Earth’s most dynamic and accessible ice fields and a highlight of traveling in Patagonia.
The glacier is huge —30km long, 5km wide, and 60 meters tall—and growing every day. With colossal chunks of ice that break off its face and plunge into the turquoise waters below, Perito Moreno provides an immersive experience that is both visual and auditory.
The glacier is a masterpiece of nature. A a stunning example of earth’s forces moving and working in real-time. Visiting it is 100% worth the hype (and price tag).
PERITO MORENO GLACIER IN ARGENTINA
The Perito Moreno Glacier is among the most beautiful places to visit in Argentina. It lies 80km from the touristy town of El Calafate, in the southern reaches of Los Glaciares National Park.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site in the southern Andes, Los Glaciares contains many glaciers that are fed by the massive South Patagonian Ice Field—the largest ice cap outside of Antarctica and Greenland and one of the world’s leading sources of freshwater.
Along with the jaw-dropping multi-pronged peaks of Mount Fitzroy near El Chalten, Perito Moreno is among the top places to see in Argentine Patagonia.
WHY IS PERITO MORENO SO FAMOUS?
While most glaciers around the world are receding due to climate change, Perito Moreno is unique in that it is actually expanding (albeit ever so slightly). A low gap in the Andes allows frequent storms to cover the surrounding mountaintops in snow all year round.
Under tremendous weight, the snow crystallizes and flows eastward down the mountain, pushing the glacier across Lago Argentino.
Thus, though chunks of the glacier are continually breaking off the wall of ice and sliding into the lake, the size of the ice sheet does not decrease.
PERITO MORENO GLACIER VIEWING PLATFORMS
Marked wooden boardwalks give visitors unparalleled views of the glacier wall that towers above Lago Argentino’s icy waters. The viewing platforms allow visitors to see, hear, and photograph the Perito Moreno Glacier up-close.
Our ice trekking tour included about 45 minutes of free time for exploring. We spent the entire time on the boardwalks, soaking in the extraordinary views of the ice sheet. In amazement, we watched as chunks of ice broke off the vertical wall with deafening roars.
We realized quickly that standing in the presence of the Perito Moreno Glacier is as much an auditory experience as a visual one. For the glacier is continually in motion—cracking, expanding, and plunging into the lake below.
TREKKING TOUR ON THE PERITO MORENO GLACIER
In order to appreciate the grandiose beauty of Perito Moreno, I highly recommend joining an ice trekking tour.
Trekking atop the ice field allows you to relish the glacier from a different vantage point. It showcases the pristine beauty of the national park and introduces you to more dazzling shades of blue than you ever knew existed.
Our tour of Perito Moreno began with a short boat ride to the edge of the glacier, near the Big Ice Trek trailhead. From water level, it was easy to appreciate the towering height of the glacier face.
Prior to touring Perito Moreno, I’d visited the the Mendenhall Glacier in Juneau Alaska and the Columbia ice field on the border of Jasper and Banff. I thought I knew exactly what to expect.
But nothing quite prepared me for the sheer size of Argentina’s most famous glacier.
Even the Grey Glacier that Dan and I had seen a few days prior in Torres del Paine seemed tiny in comparison.
After a short boat ride, we began a forty minute walk up a trail that runs parallel to the ice field.
When we reached the starting point of the trek, our guide taught us how to use crampons and gave us a few safety tips.
Atop the glacier, we were fully immersed in the textures and colors and movement of the ice field.
And as we walked away from its debris-stained edges, all the vibrant blues you can imagine started to sparkle beneath the brilliant sun.
The undulating surface of the glacier is in constant motion, much like a sand dune. At some points, spires of ice rise sharply skyward—their valleys and peaks interrupted by pools and streams of meltwater. In other places, the ice is smooth and stretches as far as the eye can see, before plunging into a brilliantly blue abyss.
It is the kind of place that I find impossible to describe with words.
HIELO Y AVENTURA ICE TREKKING TOURS
We chose to join Hielo Y Aventura for the our ice trekking experience. The company runs two tours on Perito Moreno each day—the Mini Trek and the Big Ice Trek.
Hiely y Aventura is the only company permitted to operate trekking tours on the glacier.
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MINI TREKKING
The Mini Trek offers an introduction to glacier hiking. It is perfect for travelers who don’t want to commit to the hefty price tag or long duration of the Big Ice tour.
Hielo Y Aventura’s mini trekking excursion dedicates 1.5 hours to hiking on the ice.
Participants must be at least 10 years old.
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BIG ICE TREK
The Big Ice Trek allows you to spend three hours on the ice as opposed to one and a half. It also promises the opportunity to see crevices, cracks and glacial lakes on a much larger scale.
Dan and I chose the Big Ice Trek since we’d read such rave reviews.
We’re so glad we did.
Our tour granted us 45 minutes to watch the glacier in action from the viewing platforms. It included roundtrip transport to Los Glaciares National Park, a boat ride to the edge of the glacier, all the gear for our three hour trek, and a shot of whiskey at the end.
Due to insurance liability reasons, the Big Ice Trek is limited to people aged 18-65.
OTHER PERITO MORENO GLACIER TOURS
While Hielo y Aventura offers the only ice trekking tours, it is by no means the sole tour operator in the area. There are a host of other glacier tours, bookable online, that allow you enjoy Perito Moreno from all angles.
Kayak tours on Lago Argentino offers the opportunity to get close to the action and witness the calving glacier from water level.
And if you want to explore the area by catamaran, a full day boat cruise of Los Glaciares National Park will bring you face to face with the Upsala and Bertracci glaciers in addition to Perito Moreno.
WHERE TO STAY NEAR LOS GLACIARES NATIONAL PARK
El Calafate is the closest city to the Perito Moreno Glacier. Unless you’re camping within Los Glaciares National Park, it will likely be your base when visiting the area.
The America del Sur Hostel is a great option for backpackers and solo travelers. While somewhat more expensive than other hostels in the area, it boasts a large patio and lovely views of the nearby mountains and lakes.
Posada Karut Josh is a charming midrange option with lively decor, a lakeside location, and stellar reviews.
And if you’re got some extra dollars to spend, you’ll want to look no further than the Mirador del Lago Hotel—with its clean rooms, stylish decor, and upscale amenities.
PERITO MORENO GLACIER HOURS AND FEES
Entrance to the Perito Moreno Glacier costs 500 ARS (~$30 USD). The fee is payable in cash, at the entrance to the park.
If you sign up for a tour, make sure to check whether entrance to the park is included in the price of your excursion. Most companies—including Hielo y Aventura—do not include the park entrance in their rate.
The gate to the national park opens at 8 am and closes at 6 pm during summer months. In winter, the hours are 9am to 4pm.
You can stay in the park up to two hours past the last entrance time.
GETTING TO THE GLACIER FROM EL CALAFATE
El Calafate is 90 minutes away from Perito Moreno by car.
Most people opt for the easy way of getting from El Calafate to Perito Moreno: a glacier tour that includes transport. We chose this option, as transport was included in our tour package.
During peak season, buses travel to and from the park three times a day. The earliest ones leave at around 8:30 AM and the latest return at 7:30 PM.
CalTur and Chaltén Travel both operate this route. Timetables can be found on their respective websites.
WHEN TO VISIT THE PERITO MORENO GLACIER
The best time to visit El Calafate is during the Southern Hemisphere’s Spring and Summer, from October to April.
We picked the perfect February day to visit Perito Moreno and couldn’t have been luckier weather-wise.
Of course, weather in Patagonia is notoriously unpredictable. Traveling in prime season does not necessarily mean you will have favorable weather.
Whatever time of year you plan to visit, make sure to bring lots of layers and plenty of sunscreen.
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Our day trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier was absolutely incredible, from start to finish. It brought us face to face with one of South America‘s most striking geographical features and allowed us to witness the dynamic Patagonia Ice Field in action.
At the end of our Big Ice Trek, our guides served us shots of whiskey over 200 year old glacial ice.
It was the perfect way to finish off an unforgettable adventure.
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