Visiting the Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park

The redwoods in California’s Jedediah Smith State Park are among the most impressive and awe-inspiring trees in the world. Like giants of the forest, they pierce the skies overhead and tower above the lush sword ferns that carpet the ground at their feet.

These massive trees—tucked away in the coastal hills of northwestern California—have stood the test of time. Many of the Redwoods that still stand today date back more than 2,000 years. They are true examples of perseverance. Pinnacles of efficiency. A testament to nature’s resilience.

If you find yourself in northern California or southern Oregon, you’d be remiss not to visit them.

 

CALIFORNIA REDWOODS NATIONAL AND STATE PARKS

Jedediah Smith State Park (sometimes know simply as Jed Smith) is one of three state and national parks that make up the Redwoods International Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site. In addition to Jedediah Smith, the protected patches of forest near the Oregon border include Nel Norte Coast State Park, Prairie Creek State Park, and Redwoods National Park.

Together, the disjointed swathes of federal and state land protect almost half of California’s remaining old-growth redwoods. The other half is scattered about the northern half of the state, with some redwood groves viewable on hikes near San Francisco.

Dan and I stumbled across the Jedediah Redwoods by accident, while driving to our treehouse accommodation from the spectacular Samuel H Boardman State Park on the southern Oregon coast.

Our drive from Brookings to Cave Junction dipped into California for about 50 miles and took us along California’s scenic Highway 199. The road followed the course of the Smith River—passing through an impressive stand of red-barked trees along the way. 

Awestruck, I pulled up the map on my phone and realized that we were skirting the edge of Jedediah State Park. 

We didn’t have to think twice about tweaking our travel plans so that we could experience the park’s majestic forested wonderland. 

 

WHAT MAKES THE CALIFORNIA REDWOODS SPECIAL?

California’s giant redwoods are among the world’s most beloved trees. They have attracted millions of visitors from around the world—in part due to their size, in part due to their age, and in part due to the rich reddish-brown color of their bark.

The redwood trees in northern California frequently surpass 300 feet in height and 20 feet in diameter. They are so large that they make the towering evergreens of the Pacific Northwest look like mere mortals among giants.

Not only are these beloved red-barked trees the tallest in the world, but they are also among the oldest. Their resilience has made them shining examples of adaptation.

The redwood trees of Jedediah Smith State Park glean nutrients from the soil at their roots, and from the coastal moisture that blankets the air at their canopies. Their thick red bark can hold thousands of gallons of water, which has helped them repeal wildfires for centuries.

In a place so prone to wildfires, their ability to store water has allowed them to thrive amidst even the most daunting obstacles.

 

JEDEDIAH REDWOODS STATE PARK

Jedediah Smith is one of the most noteworthy state parks in California. It is the last in a long string of redwood forests that stretch from the Bay Area to the Oregon border.

The state park gets its name from Jedediah Smith—a pioneer who explored the untamed forests of northern California in the 1920s.

Jedediah Smith State Park does not contain California’s largest redwood trees. Nor does it contain its oldest. Yet still, it boasts over 7% of all of the world’s old-growth redwoods and is home to some of the most scenic groves in northern California.

Despite its impressive attractions, Jedediah Smith is the least visited park within California’s Redwoods State and National Park System. Its sublime scenery is blissfully underdeveloped and largely unexplored compared to that of the other redwood parks in the area.

As a result, it is possible to explore the forested wonderland without large crowds—making the experience of visiting Jedediah Smith all the more magical.

 

HOWLAND HILL DRIVE

Driving Howland Hill Road is the top thing to do in Jedediah Smith Park. The unpaved corridor traverses the center of the forest and passes by some of the area’s most impressive clusters of trees.

Beginning a few miles east of Crescent City, the scenic road offers motorists an intimate encounter with old-growth redwood trees. It follows Mill Creek through the heart of the park and terminates near the small settlement of Hiouchi.  The entire route is about ten miles long. It takes 45 minutes to complete without stopping.

When we visited Jedediah Smith Park, road closures on the western portion of Howland Hill Road meant that we couldn’t access the drive from Crescent City. Instead, we entered the park at Hiouchi and traveled the portion between the Visitor Center and Boy Scout Tree Trail.

For visitors hoping to explore Jedediah Smith State Park on two feet, the scenic drive is a launching point for some of the area’s most famous and well-loved hiking trails—including the Boy Scout Tree Trail and Stout Grove.

 

THE STOUT GROVE TRAIL

Stout Grove lies along Howland Hill Road, near Mill Creek’s confluence with the Smith River. It is a particularly stunning portion of the Jedediah State Park. Some even go as far as claiming that it contains the world’s most scenic stand of redwoods.

With its dappled light and soaring canopies, Stout Grove has an otherworldly, cathedral-like majesty. The grove’s densely-packed trees conceal a plush lawn-like carpet of ferns and sorrel.

Stout Grove isn’t particularly large. Nor does it have the biggest trees. But its photogenic appeal is second to none.

Stout Grove is the quintessential Jedediah Redwoods attraction. A walk around the area’s .5 mile loop trail reveals colossal redwoods that have thrived for centuries thanks to periodic flooding of the Smith River.

Aside from waist-high sword ferns, there aren’t many other plants that inhabit the area around Stout Grove. Floodwaters inhibit the growth of understory trees, making the 300 foot giants appear even more colossal in contrast to the low-lying ferns.

 

BOY SCOUT TRAIL

Though it lies just a few miles down the road from Stout Grove, the Boy Scout Tree Trail in Jedediah Smith State Park feels wonderfully remote.  Along with Stout Grove, it showcases one of the most pristine old-growth forests in existence.

The 6.3 mile out and back trail meanders pleasantly up a gently-sloped hillside. The trail’s elevated vantage point offers superb views of the trees all around. A plush carpet of ferns covers the ground, unbroken except for the redwoods.

Boy Scout Tree Trail ends at Fern Falls, a small cascade at the edge of the Jedediah State Park.

Dan and I didn’t make it all the way to Fern Falls because of time constraints. Nonetheless, our two mile stroll along the Boy Scout Trail gave us a taste of some of the most beautiful redwood groves in the world.

And to top it all off, we seemed to have the entire place to ourselves.

THE SMITH RIVER

The Smith River flows right beside Hwy 199, along the edge of the Jedediah Redwoods. Its serpentine course begins in the high Siskiyou Mountains and winds through dense verdant forests.

As the crystal-clear waterway meanders through the seldom-trodden reaches of northern California, it acts as a centerpiece for a smorgasbord of recreational activities—including rafting, fishing, and swimming.

For travelers who are tired of craning their necks toward the treetops, a dip in the Smith River can offer a refreshing change of pace.

 

WHERE TO STAY IN AND AROUND JEDEDIAH STATE PARK

Jedediah Smith State Park is home to a drive-in campground that offers RV hookups, tent spaces, and four rustic cabins.

Near the park information center in Hiouchi, visitors can stay at the Redwood Meadows RV Resort or the Hiouchi Motel. A wider selection of cabins, guesthouses, and hotels can be found ten miles down the road, in Crescent City.

Since Dan and I stumbled across the redwoods by accident, we didn’t have an opportunity to stay at any of the campsites or hotels located within close proximity of the Jedediah redwoods.

Instead, we enjoyed a tree-themed stay at the Vertical Horizons Treehouse Resort near Cave Junction, Oregon.

Though the treehouse resort is not located within a redwood grove, it is nonetheless a peaceful and quiet refuge among towering coniferous trees. It lies less than an hour from the Hiouchi Visitor’s Center, near the Oregon Caves National Monument.

For redwood-bound travelers seeking a romantic forested retreat, the Treehouse Resort is a fantastic choice of accommodation.

 

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If there’s any plant on earth that is the poster child for nature’s resilience and strength, it is primeval  redwoods that pierce the skies near California’s border with Oregon.

The park’s redwood groves are ethereal and otherworldly. They are a wonder like no other; a magnet for lovers of nature and a must-see attraction for travelers visiting northern California.

Walking along the forested trails in Jedediah Smith State Park is like stepping into the pages of a fairy tale.

In fact, the park’s redwood groves are so majestic and regal, that I wouldn’t be surprised if they were sprinkled with a bit of magic, too.

 

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