Svaneti Georgia: Hiking and Travel Guide

Isolated and wild, Svaneti Georgia is a land of enchantment that sits high in the Caucasus Mountains.

Geographically cut off from the rest of the country and seemingly stuck in time, the little slice of heaven soars miles above the clouds.

In Svaneti, picturesque settlements—characterized by their UNESCO-recognized Svan towers—lie sprinkled about dramatic mountains that are laced with hiking trails.

It is the Georgia of glossy travel brochures, yet it is so inaccessible that very few travelers make their way to its doorstep.

 

SVANETI REGION OF GEORGIA

Svaneti is divided into two regions: Upper (Zemo) Svaneti and Lower (Kvemo) Svaneti. A mountain range bisects the region, cutting off its northern half and sandwiching it between lofty peaks.

Upper Svaneti encompasses Mestia and the villages of Ushguli. It is a true unspoiled paradise.

Any mention of Svaneti in this blog post refers solely to the UNESCO-recognized Upper Svaneti region.

Svaneti is so remote and isolated that it was never conquered by invaders. Its inhabitants, the fiercely independent Svan people, have been the gatekeepers of northern Georgia’s mountain passes for centuries. They are proud warriors; the ultimate survivors.

And throughout history, their independence has allowed them to retain a distinct language and culture that still thrives today.

The towns and villages of Svaneti Georgia have a unique architecture that reflects the region’s independent spirit. These communities often contain small collections of houses, each equipped with stone lookout towers that were constructed to protect against invading armies and natural disasters.

These stone towers are a symbol of Svaneti’s distinct regional identity.

 

MESTIA GEORGIA: GATEWAY TO SVANETI

Mestia is the ‘capital’ of Upper Svaneti and the de-facto transportation hub of the region. A sprawling conglomeration of at least ten hamlets, it sits in a verdant Svan-tower-dotted valley.

Despite its small size, Mestia is an important cultural center. The town feels downright bustling compared to the region’s more remote villages.

Mestia provides a great base for hiking in Svaneti.

With a half day in Mestia before we headed to Ushguli, we decided to hike the first few miles of the Mestia-Ushguli trail.

Unfortunately, Dan and I weren’t able to properly take advantage of the town’s wealth of hiking trails. Our hike only gave us a tiny taste of the stunning scenery that lies at the town’s fingertips.

 

USHGULI GEORGIA: THE JEWEL OF UPPER SVANETI

Beyond Mestia lies the tinier, higher and more remote smattering of villages known collectively as Ushguli. The five small hamlets— Zhibiani,  Chvibiani,  Chazhashi,  Murqmeli, and  Lamjurishi—sit nestled under the shadow of the towering Mount Shkhara.

Set in the topmost reaches of the Enguri valley beneath the snow-covered dome of Georgia’s highest peak, Ushguli is an unbelievably picturesque spot and one of the most beautiful places in Georgia.

Many of the travelers we met in Svaneti chose to visit Ushguli as a day trip from Mestia.

But the road from Mestia to Ushguli is mostly washed-out gravel, meaning that the 47km journey can take upwards of three hours. Even though we visited in the height of summer, the road was in terrible shape due to recent rainfall. Our driver had to dodge potholes, weave around landslides and even ford a small river.

Needless to say, considering the effort it took us to get to Ushguli, I’m glad we stuck around for a few days.

 

TOP HIKES IN SVANETI GEORGIA

Svaneti Georgia is a hiker’s wonderland.

It is rugged and wild. A true paradise for lovers of off-the-beaten-path travel and adventure. 

Whether you’re looking to undertake multi-day backpacking trips or half-day adventures, hiking in Svaneti provides no shortage of breathtaking views.

 

POPULAR HIKES IN MESTIA

Mestia is Svaneti’s tourism hub and the place from which most of Svaneti’s marked hiking trails depart.

Though Dan and I only had the time to do a half-day of hiking in Mestia, we immediately realized that we would need at least three full days to do the area justice (with an additional four for the full Mestia-Ushguli trail).

• CHALADI GLACEIR

The Chalaadi Glacier lies about 12km outside of Mestia. The glacial tongue, about 6km long, follows the Chaladi River Gorge before emptying out near the Mestiachala River. It is one of the most easily accessible glaciers in the Caucasus and a popular day hike destination from Mestia. 

The Chaladi Glacier hike takes about 4-5 hours roundtrip.

• KORULDI LAKES

The 10km Koruldi Lakes trail is another one of Mestia’s most popular hikes.

A classic Svaneti hike, it leads to a group of alpine lakes that lie at the foot of Mt Ushba. Trails from the Koruldi Lakes continue onward, along the spectacular Koruldi Ridge.

The lakes are also accessible by car. If you’re hoping to cover more ground and savor views from the ridge, you can catch a ride to the lakes and begin your hike from there.

 

THE MESTIA TO USHGULI TRAIL

The 37.4 mile point-to-point trail between Mestia and Ushguli is one of the best hikes in Svaneti. It takes 3-4 days to complete and is popular among backpackers.

Dan and I didn’t have time in our itinerary to dedicate to the full trekking route.

So heeding advice from the visitor’s center in town, we set out in the direction of Ushguli and then turned back after the first few miles.

The trek from Mestia to Ushguli follows a well-marked path that leads past several rural hamlets. It overlooks the river, passes through cow-studded pastures and provides mind-blowing 360 degree panoramas of the surrounding mountains.

Of course, with only a few hours to explore, Dan and I were merely able to get a taste of the popular trekking route before turning back.

Still, we relished the views and ogled at the drama of Svaneti’s wilderness.

 

TOP USHGULI HIKES

At 2,100 meters above sea level, Ushguli is Europe’s highest permanently inhabited settlement and an undeniable highlight of travel to Georgia.

Aside from the Shkhara Glacier hike, there aren’t many well-marked trails in Ushguli. And since the town is too small to offer a visitor’s center, we consulted our trusty *maps.me app for hiking suggestions.

• TAMAR’S CASTLE

The atmospheric ruins of Tamar’s Castle sit on top of a hill in Chazhashi. They once consisted of four defensive towers and a church, though just one tower and the ruins of the church can be seen today.

The short hike to Queen Tamar’s Castle is among the most popular in Ushguli.

• SHKHARA GLACIER HIKE

The Mount Shkhara’s glacier hike follows the Patara Enguri river as it winds between grassy mountainsides and past verdant pastures.

The hike takes roughly six hours to complete. The entire trek follows the river along the valley floor. It is a leisurely alternative to the more strenuous hikes in the area.

As we followed the river, we witnessed cows grazing in the pastures and young boys on horseback tending to their sheep.

All the while, the snowcapped massif of Mount Shkhara expanded before us.

• MOUNT GVARI TRAIL

On our second day in Ushguli, we settled on a trail that would give us 360 degree panoramas of the mountains and birds-eye views of town. The trail leading up Mount Gvari is well-marked, though certainly off the beaten path. It follows the river to the west of town and then veers up a mountainside behind the village of Murkmeli.

It took us nearly three hours to hike to the summit of Gvari Peak. Perhaps it was due to the high altitude, or perhaps Dan and I were just embarrassingly out of shape, but we found the hike to be exhausting. It seemed we could only take a few steps, before needing to catch our breaths.

But the views from the top of the Mount Gvari were jaw-dropping.

And better yet, we were able to enjoy the entire mountain paradise without another soul in sight.

 

WHERE TO STAY IN SVANETI

Svaneti isn’t a mainstream tourism destination, so you won’t find popular international hotel and resort chains.

Instead, Svaneti’s accommodations mostly consists of guesthouses, homestays, and rustic hotels.

• USHGULI

We spent two nights in a local homestay during our visit to Ushguli and enjoyed the basic yet comfortable experience.

The property we stayed at is no longer bookable online and I’m not sure if they’re still accepting guests, but there are several other similar accommodations that receive positive reviews. Among them are the Nizharadze’s Tower and Chazhashi Guesthouse.

If you’re looking for a more hotel-like place to stay, you might want to consider the Agra Ushguli.

• MESTIA

Mestia has the largest assortment of hotels in Svaneti. As the region’s tourism hub, it caters to a variety of different budgets and travel styles.

We stayed at Hotel Elite House (formerly known as Marina’s Guesthouse) during our short visit to Mestia. The accommodation was superb—centrally located, clean and affordable.

For budget travelers, the Ecohouse Svaneti boasts ski-to-door rooms at an unbeatable price. Though it lies a few miles from town, it is a great option if you have your own transportation.

For a mid-range option, the Paliani Hotel features clean modern rooms and a central location.

And if you’re looking for a quiet cabin retreat within easy reach of town, the WinterFell Mestia offers two-story A-frames with balconies and mountain views.

 

GETTING TO SVANETI

In order to reach Svaneti from Tbilisi, we took an overnight train to Kutaisi, followed by a three hour mashrutka journey to the provincial capital of Mestia.

Most travelers will find themselves transiting through Zugdidi to reach Mestia. During Georgia’s low season, when there are no direct vans from Tbilisi/Kutaisi/Batumi, you’ll probably have to change in Zugdidi.

While it’s possible to self-drive to Svaneti, I don’t recommend it unless you are very experienced with rough washed-out roads. Weather conditions in the mountains change fast. Landslides occur every year, and the road often gets damaged by heavy rain.

The road from Mestia to Ushguli is downright scary and best left to experienced drivers who make the journey daily. Most car rentals won’t even let you take rentals into the remote reaches of Upper Svaneti.

 

BEST TIME TO VISIT SVANETI

In the summer months of July and August, the weather can be unbearably hot in the Caucasus capitals of Tbilisi, Yerevan and Baku.

But up in the remote northern mountains of Georgia, summer is the best time to visit.

Mestia has a few ski resorts that are open during winter months, but travel to Ushguli will probably be a no-go come November.

In colder months, snow and ice makes the mountain villages inaccessible.

 

***

Hiking in Svaneti Georgia provides no shortage of spectacular views. And Ushguli—the collection of rustic postcard-perfect towns at the base of Mount Shkhara—is its ultimate unexplored frontier.

Unlike the equally stunning Kazbeghi region along Georgia’s Military Highway, a visit to Svaneti cannot be accomplished in a day.

Travel in the region–especially around the remote outpost of Ushguli– is more challenging than in the rest of Georgia. The roads are bad. Food options are limited. Wifi is slow. Electricity is sporadic. And inclement weather can make the villages unreachable, even in the height of summer.

But truth be told, with scenery so beautiful in every direction, the lack of amenities should be the last thing on your mind.

 

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