Guide to Harbour Island in the Bahamas
Harbour Island measures three miles in length and about half a mile in width. A mere dot on the map, it lies just off the coast of untamed Eleuthera, in the remote Out Islands of the Bahamas.
Despite its relative isolation and easygoing vibe, the wee Caribbean gem packs a lot of glitz and glamour into its five-square-mile footprint. The sliver of land—fondly known as “Briland” by locals—has ended up in the luxury travel spotlight.
With its impossibly clear waters and delicate pink sand, Harbour Island is a tiny coral speck in a scintillating blue sea.
HARBOUR ISLAND: OLDEST SETTLEMENT IN THE BAHAMAS
Harbour Island boasts quaint colorful streets, tasty conch restaurants, and one of the world’s most renowned beaches. The coral-rimmed island lies within the embrace of Eleuthera—a long narrow strip of land worthy of off-the-beaten-path exploration.
European history in Eleuthera and its sister islands dates back to 1650, when a group of loyalists were fleeing persecution in Britain. They shipwrecked off a reef named Devil’s Backbone and landed on the area’s main island. They called the island Eleutheria, the Greek word for freedom.
Eventually, though the vast majority of refugees settled in Spanish Wells, some ended up in Harbour Island.
These settlers established an independent government and settlement on the island that lasted for nearly 70 years— from the time the Puritans landed in 1650 to when Harbour Island surrendered its rights to the British Crown in 1717.
Eleuthera, Harbour Island and nearby Spanish Wells are each unique in their own way.
And yet, while they are wildly different with regards to tourist amenities, they are inextricably bounded to one another by history and proximity.
DUNMORE TOWN
Dunmore Town, the only community on the island, is a charming church-filled village that exudes New-England-style charm. Named after the island’s governor between 1786-1797, is one of the oldest settlements in the Bahamas.
Dunmore Town is home to pretty colonial-style clapboard houses adorned with lush plants and bougainvillea. The colorful architecture blends beautifully with the island’s surrounding nature and laid-back aesthetic.
In the late 1800s, Dunmore was known for its ship building and sugar refinement. It was not until the 1950s that the picturesque community gained renown as a vacation destination among exclusive crowds.
Today, it draws some of the wealthiest vacationers from around the world.
And yet, while it may be a favorite getaway destination for the rich and famous, the laid-back village is both idyllic and unpretentious. Its colorful buildings hide behind lush vegetation and remain somewhat understated, despite the island’s exorbitant prices.
THE FAMOUS PINK SAND BEACH
While Dunmore Town’s streets have plenty of photo-worthy nooks and crannies, the colorful urban center is not the main reason that Harbour Island has garnered such high praise. The island’s widespread appeal is entirely due to its most striking natural feature—the shimmering pink sand beach.
The beach stretches the entire length of the island and is the focal point around which everything on the blip of land revolves.
The Pink Beach’s rosy glow is a result of finely pulverized coral. It has been called the world’s most beautiful beach by a slew of international publications.
And Dan and I could certainly see why. It joins the ranks of Shoal Bay in Anguilla and Trunk Bay in St John.
WHERE TO STAY ON HARBOUR ISLAND
Our Harbour Island lodging experience was a bit out of the ordinary. As budget-conscious travelers, Dan and I booked the cheapest room we could find at the Tingum Village Hotel.
However, when the staff had double booked our room, a bout of anniversary luck landed us an upgrade. Somehow, we were able to celebrate Dan’s birthday and our one year of marriage at the luxurious Secret Kiss Villa.
Of course, renting out an oversized five bedroom villa is probably not an option for many.
But fortunately, the small island has plenty of places to stay, as long as you’re willing to shell out some cash.
Harbour Island attracts high end luxury travelers. Its hotels range from expensive to extravagant. Some of the most popular island accommodations include the Coral Sands Hotel, the Dunmore Hotel, and Valentine’s Resort.
WHERE TO EAT ON HARBOUR ISLAND
Dan and I ate at some wonderful places during our stay on Harbour Island. We enjoyed delicious smoothies at the Sweet Spot Cafe, filled up on bread at Arthur’s Bakery, and ate a delectable seafood dinner at Queen Conch.
If you’re traveling on a shoestring, Ma Ruby’s cooks up some of the island’s most budget-conscious fare. Dan and I didn’t get to taste the restaurant’s highly-touted burgers, but we very much enjoyed our order of conch fritters.
Additionally, we heard great things about the food at Sip Sip Restaurant. Unfortunately, however, the restaurant was temporarily closed during our visit.
HARBOUR ISLAND TRANSPORTATION
Harbour Island’s special character can be attributed thanks, in large part, to the fact that the island does not house commercial airports or cruise docks. It embodies a form of isolation that inhabitants and tourists enjoy.
GETTING TO HARBOUR ISLAND:
The easiest way to reach Harbour Island is via neighboring Eleuthera. Routes connect Nassau and the southern United States with the North Eleuthera Airport. From the airport, $5 taxis run the mile-long length of road to the ferry dock. Water shuttles to the Harbour Island marina cost an additional $5 per person.
GETTING AROUND:
Like Spanish Wells, Harbour Island is so tiny that renting a car serves no purpose. In fact, I believe the island outright prohibits tourists from driving rental vehicles.
Most travelers opt for golf cart rentals instead. Golf carts are ubiquitous on Harbour Island and cost roughly $50 per day.
Dan and I opted out of renting a golf cart, despite the 20 minute walk from our accommodation to the ferry dock. We simply viewed it as an unnecessary expense on an island where costs add up quickly.
Though getting around by golf cart is most convenient, we were happy with our money-saving strategy. Distances on the island are short. And reaching the Pink Sand Beach from the ferry dock only requires a ten minute journey on foot.
*****
Harbour Island’s blush-colored beach certainly draws a lot of fanfare and praise from media outlets the world over.
As a result, our expectations before visiting were quite high.
They were so high, in fact, that we weren’t sure if the island could possibly live up to the hype.
But we’re pleased to say that it did not disappoint.
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