Driving around Tahiti: Top Things to Do and See
Tahiti conjures images of a far-flung tropical paradise. The largest island in French Polynesia, it has long been associated with crystal clear waters, soft white sands and luxurious overwater bungalows.
Yet, in Tahiti, the sands are not white and the waters are not clear. And stepping foot on the island might make you wonder about the images you’ve seen in holiday brochures.
It is a paradoxical place—one whose very name draws people to French Polynesia, and then ultimately becomes overlooked by travelers opting to visit other islands instead.
Tahiti may not satisfy our imaginings of the Pacific, but the volcanic island is nonetheless intoxicating. What Tahiti lacks in white sand, it makes up for with its waterfall-laden mountainsides, its sweeping volcanic beaches, and its distinct Polynesian flair.
THINGS TO DO IN TAHITI
There is no doubt that Tahiti is the heart and soul of French Polynesia. The island buzzes with locals going about their daily lives. It is a place where the island archipelago puts on its most vibrant cultural display.
Dan and I visited Tahiti at the tail end of our week-long trip to French Polynesia. Our packed 24 hour itinerary encompassed many of the top things to do in Tahiti—including visits to ruins, gardens, waterfalls, and stunning black sand beaches.
SHOP AT THE PAPEETE MARKET
The Papeete Market fills an entire city block in French Polynesia’s largest city. It sells everything from vegetables to flower bouquets and from a hearty Polynesian meals to kitschy tourist trinkets. Visiting its colorful stalls is the top thing to do in Papeete.
The Papeete Municipal Market is open daily, from 4am to 6pm. On Monday it opens an hour later. On Sundays—when local residents rush to get their provisions before heading off to church—the market opens its doors at 3am and closes by 9am.
Sunday mornings are said to be particularly lively at the Papeete Market.
STEP BACK IN TIME AT THE ARAHURAHU MARAE
We began our counterclockwise drive around the Tahiti with a stop at the Arahurahu Marae archeological site. Maraes are Polynesian temple enclosures used for worship and social gatherings. They can be found throughout the Polynesian islands and New Zealand.
Though most maraes appear to be nothing more than piles of rounded rocks, they represent once-important centers of social, political and religious activity.
An open-air museum of sorts, Arahurahu is the only marae in all of Polynesia that has been fully restored.
The Arahurah Marae lies nestled amidst lush jungle-like vegetation. Its tiki statues and stone structures are a testament to Polynesia’s rich history and tradition prior to European colonization. Though I could find little online about their significance, the humanlike tiki statues reminded me of mini versions of Easter Island‘s moai.
VISIT THE LUSH MARA’A GROTTO
Along the southern coast of Tahiti, meandering pathways lead to ferny grottoes dripping in lush vegetation.
The three grottos at Mara’a are spectacularly overgrown with ferns and massive plants. They conceal crystal clear pools of water.
Paul Gauguin used to come here to paint.
It isn’t difficult to see why.
The Mara’a Grotto lies along the southwestern edge of Tahiti’s coastal road. An easily accessible manicured path leads to its fairytale caves.
SWIM AT TAHARUU BLACK SAND BEACH
Taharuu Beach is a sweeping stretch of volcanic sand that lies in the shadows of Tahiti’s lush mountainsides. Though it is one of Tahiti’s most beautiful beaches, it is a stark contrast to the idyllic white sand of Bora Bora or Moorea.
While at Taharuu, we found a local fish shack that sold tasty poisson cru. After a walk along the beach, we sat down for lunch—watching the rhythmic crashing of frothy waves against ebony sands.
You’ll find the beach about 25 miles southeast of Papeete, in Papara. There’s no fee to access its breathtaking stretch of shoreline.
Taharuu Beach is not the only idyllic black sand beach on Tahiti. If you’re staying close to Papeete, Lafayette Beach is also notable for its volcanic sand. As is the Point Venus peninsula.
If you’re after white sand, your closest bets will be Maui Beach and Taoroto (but don’t expect the same snowy-white hues that ring French Polynesia’s outer islands).
ADMIRE THE GARDENS OF VAIPAHI
Situated along Tahiti’s southern coast in Mataiea, the Vaipahi Gardens are a lush verdant paradise. They house exotic flowers, streams, lily ponds, and waterfalls.
The Vaipahi Waterfall, located a short walk from the garden’s entrance, is one of the most beautiful cascades on the island. It is well worth visiting, even if you have plans to stop by the larger and more renowned Faaruami waterfalls during your trip.
From the garden, two additional hiking loops showcase the tropical island‘s reef from above.
The Vaipahi Gardens are free to visit. They open daily at 7am and close at 5pm.
FAARUMAI WATERFALLS
The lush island of Tahiti is no stranger to water. During the rainy season, small cascades trickle down the mountainsides like flowing tears.
The year-round Faarumai waterfalls are the tallest and most beautiful in Polynesia. Visiting them is among the top things to do in Tahiti.
The waterfalls are located near Tiarei Village, on the island’s northeastern edge.
A short trail leads you to Vaimahutu, the first of the waterfalls. Another 20-minute stroll leads to the side-by-side Haamarere Iti and Haamarere Rahi.
SURF THE WAVES IN TAHITI
Surfing pros like to head to Teahupo’o on Tahiti Iti—home of the annual Billabong pro Tahiti surf competition.
At Teahupo’o, the seafloor rises quickly. As a result, southwesterly swells carry energy from the open ocean until they crash into the offshore reef. Its massive crashing waves are known as “the heaviest waves in the world.”
Visitors looking for easier rides will find gentler waves at Taharuu, Papenoo and Orofara.
Dan and I don’t have any first-hand experience surfing in Tahiti.
But from our understanding, the island has no shortage of surfable waves.
WATCH THE SUNSET AT POINT VENUS
Point Venus Beach lies along a small peninsula on the northernmost tip of Tahiti. It features a lighthouse and a park-like setting. The sandy peninsula is a popular destination for swimming, picnics, and family outings.
It is here that James Cook observed the transit of Venus across the sun in 1769.
Point Venus Beach is the best sunset-viewing spot on Tahiti. At the end of our drive around the island, we enjoyed watching the sun descend behind Moorea’s jagged silhouette in the distance.
I couldn’t help but feel an overwhelming sense of déjà vu as I stood out on the soft volcanic sand and watched the sun reflect its colors onto the ocean. In so many ways, it reminded me of watching the sun set at Punta Jesus Maria on Nicaragua’s Ometepe Island.
TAKE A TOUR THROUGH TAHITI’S LUSH INTERIOR
From the coastline, Tahiti’s mountains appear otherworldly—almost as though they belong in the backdrop of a fantasy film.
Tahiti’s interior is incredibly impenetrable and exploring the heart of the island can only be done by 4×4 or on a guided tour.
Dan and I never made it to Tahiti’s interior. Due to time and budgetary constraints, we chose to skip out on a tour of the area.
I’ll be sure to join a 4X4 adventure tour next time I visit the island, however. Foregoing a trip into the heart of Tahiti is one of my biggest travel regrets.
Based on what we got to see of Tahiti’s jagged peaks during our drive, I’m sure a voyage into the island’s interior would have been unforgettable.
WHERE TO STAY IN TAHITI
French Polynesia is practically synonymous with luxury. The island chain is famous for its overwater bungalows and opulent waterside cottages.
If you’re traveling to Tahiti on a budget, you’ll probably have to look toward renting a room or AirBnb. For inexpensive hotels, the Mahana Lodge Hostel in Papeete and Manomano Lodge in Papara offer comparatively inexpensive rooms.
For mid-range travelers, the Vanira Lodge and Manaeva Lodge boast great reviews.
And if you don’t mind splurging for your once-in-a-lifetime trip to the South Pacific, you might want to consider the beautiful InterContinental Tahiti—with its overwater bungalows, lavish garden setting, and beautifully appointed rooms.
BEST TIME TO VISIT TAHITI
Although the island’s temperatures remain balmy year-round, the best time to visit Tahiti is between the months of May and October.
Tahiti’s winter brings less rain and pleasant temperatures that hover in the mid-80s. During the summer months—November through April—temperatures remain pretty consistent, but you’ll likely encounter high humidity and lots of rain.
ISLAND HOPPING FROM TAHITI
Tahiti is the transportation hub of French Polynesia. Even if you decide to skip visiting the island en-route to Moorea or Bora Bora, you’ll have to fly through Tahiti’s Fa’a International Airport.
A passenger ferry travels from Tahiti to Moorea several times a day. It leaves from the Papeete port and arrives at Moorea’s Vaiare marina. Prices start at around $15 per trip.
For travelers looking to fly between French Polynesia’s islands, Air Tahiti connects the country’s main hub with smaller airports on the outer islands. Travelers going between different islands can include the short journey in their multi-island passes with Air Tahiti.
Aside from Hawaii, it is not currently possible to fly from Tahiti to other Pacific Islands. If you want to visit places like Palau, Micronesia or the Marshall Islands, you’ll have to transfer in a major airline hub.
Day trip tours from Tahiti to Tetiaroa Atoll will allow you to visit a pristine private atoll ringed with scintillating white sand and warm turquoise water.
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Tahiti isn’t the palm-fringed South Pacific island that so many people have come to romanticize. Its black sand beaches are quite different from the sparkling white sand that has become practically synonymous with French Polynesia.
But the verdant volcanic gem is replete with things to see and do.
Driving around Tahiti gives visitors a taste of the island’s contemporary culture and deep-rooted history.
And in doing so, it reveals the oft-forgotten gems that lie concealed beneath French Polynesia’s glitzy surface.
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