Day Trip to France and Andorra from Barcelona
Renowned for its plethora of banks and high end shopping malls, the minuscule nation of Andorra seems an unlikely destination for lovers of nature and the outdoors. The country is a tax haven and a duty-free shopping mecca. In summer months, it lures hoards of day trippers from France and Spain with its favorable prices and luxurious escapes.
But beyond its bustling capital, Andorra la Vella, the country’s idyllic landscapes reveal an astounding wealth of natural splendor. Situated at the heart of the Pyrenees Mountains and sandwiched between Spain and France, the small principality boasts craggy mountains, tumbling valleys, idyllic cow-speckled pastures and some of the best ski slopes in Europe.
THREE COUNTRIES IN ONE DAY TOUR
I traveled to Andorra from Barcelona, during a week-long trip to Spain with my future mother-in-law. Our joint plans included spending three days in Catalonia, followed by a few additional days in Madrid and Toledo.
I arrived in Spain two days prior to the official start of our vacation. Knowing that we would spend the following days in Barcelona and Montserrat, I began looking into various day trips farther afield.
One trip, in particular, caught my eye: a tour that offered the opportunity to travel into the heart of the Pyrenees and visit three countries in one day.
The ‘Three Countries in One Day Tour’ is a popular excursion from Barcelona. The tour costs roughly €120 per person and includes roundtrip transportation and a guide. Though I found the price a bit steep considering it excluded lunch, it still proved to be a good option for exploring Andorra as a day trip from Spain.
The tour’s whirlwind itinerary leaves Barcelona at 7am and returns in the evening. It takes visitors to the picturesque towns of Baga in Spain and Ax-les-Thermes in France, before continuing onward to the tiny country that lies wedged in the Pyrenees.
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BAGA, SPAIN
Baga is a quintessential Catalonian town nestled below the peaks of Cadi-Moixero National Park. It is sleepy and photogenic, with a handful of monuments that date back to the Middle Ages. Though it isn’t packed with particular must-see sights, the town as a whole gives a glimpse into small-town Catalan life.
Our hour-long visit to Baga consisted of a breakfast stop at one of the town’s local bakeries, followed by a short walking tour of its historic core.
First, we stopped briefly at the St. Esteve de Baga Church. Then, we meandered through the town’s historic houses and found ourselves in Plaça Porxada—a Medieval market square built in the 13th century.
In Baga, yellow ribbons were everywhere—tied to statues, spray painted on sidewalks, hanging from balconies and dangling from lamp posts. Our guide explained that the ribbons adorned the city in order to bring awareness to the political prisoners that were detained during Catalonia’s independence referendum.
I’d seen some ribbons hanging from the buildings in Barcelona too, but it was easy to forget about politics in such a touristy city. Traveling to the sleepy town of Baga, on the other hand, brought the region’s independence struggles to the fore.
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AX-LES-THERMES, FRANCE
From Baga, we crossed the French border and headed deeper into the Pyrenees Mountains, toward the village of Ax-les-Thermes. We arrived in Ax-les-Thermes just before noon and were given an hour and a half to eat lunch and enjoy its quiet streets.
Ax-les-Thermes is a beautiful village surrounded by the Pyrenees. It is a popular resort town that attracts visitors from around France with its thermal spas and access to the outdoors.
During my short stay in France, I took advantage of the town’s geothermal features and soaked my feet in the groundwater-fed pool that lies adjacent to its main square. The healing waters of Ax-les-Thermes are said to cure rheumatism and skin diseases.
After soaking my feet, I bought a few french pastries, wandered the town’s streets, and followed a footpath along the Ariege River.
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ANDORRA: HEART OF THE PYRENEES
While Baga and Ax-les-Thermes proved to be good places to get out of the bus and stretch my legs, Andorra was the true highlight of my day trip into the Pyrenees. Prior to visiting Andorra, my knowledge of the country was relatively proportionate to its size (in other words, I didn’t know much).
The pint-sized country, however, is a fascinating place. Legend has it that Charlemagne founded Andorra so that it could act as a buffer state and keep the Moors out of France. In subsequent years, the country changed hands between Spain and France on numerous occasions.
In the 13th century, France and Spain agreed that the principality would be neither Spanish nor French. They accepted joint leadership of the area, establishing the world’s only co-principality. This unique arrangement survives to this day. And, while leadership is divided between the president of France and the bishop of Urgell in Spain, Andorra clings to its official status as an independent country.
As we crossed the border from France to Andorra, we had some time to step off the bus and soak in the views of the Pyrenees mountains. The bucolic countryside stretched before us, speckled with grazing cows and flocks of sheep.
Our day trip to Andorra consisted of a scenic drive through mountain passes, followed by a visit to Andorra la Vella—the country’s capital city.
Aside from its ski slopes and hiking trails, shopping is Andorra’s main tourist draw. More than 10 million visitors pour into the country annually, in order to buy tax-free luxury goods and electronics.
Travel writers and bloggers have been quick to point out that Andorra la Vella retains the charm of a luxury shopping mall. And it isn’t difficult to see why. A walk down the city’s main street passes by store, after store, after store.
Yet, while shopping is the name of the game in this modern mountain metropolis, the city houses a charming mix of monuments worth visiting. Particular points of interest in Andorra la Vella include the Sant Esteve Church, Salvador Dali’s melting clock sculpture, and the 16th century Casa de la Vall.
The Barri Antic, which means ‘old town’ in Catalan, is the oldest part of Andorra la Vella. It has been the heart of the city since the principality was little more than a village. The Barri Antic has the winding layout, cobbled streets and a cluster of attractive stone houses that date back to the Middle Ages.
I only had about an hour to explore Andorra la Vella, but I could have easily spent more time in the city. With its walkability and manageable size, I found it to be a modern and pleasant gateway to the Pyrenees.
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My day trip to Andorra gave me a passing glimpse of three distinct countries—all within the span of a mere 12 hours. The whirlwind tour itinerary may not have been filled with must-see sites or big-name attractions, but it was a worthwhile excursion nonetheless. It gave me an overview of Catalan independence struggles, taught me a little bit about Andorra’s peculiar history, and allowed me to admire some of Europe’s most attractive scenery.
Rick Steves once mentioned that he traveled to Andorra so that other people wouldn’t have to.
But, for once, I disregarded his advice and traveled to Andorra anyway.
And what’s more?
Despite my aversion to shopping, I thoroughly enjoyed it.
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